That Loveable Ugly Duckling
Published Monday, March 13, 2006 by Matt Armendariz | E-mail this post
Once considered the ugly stepchild of Mexican cuisine, Tex-Mex food in recent years has finally garnered some respect and adulation. Robb Walsh, the Houston Press's restaurant critic and author of Legends Of Texas Barbecue Cookbook
and co-author of A Cowboy In The Kitchen
and Nuevo Tex Mex
, finally sheds some light on a widely undefined and misunderstood cuisine. It's not Mexican, it's not American, it's from Texas–and it's much more than just cheese enchiladas.
Robb Walsh covers the Mexican Pioneers of the sixteenth century, who first brought cattle to Texas, and the Spaniards who brought cumin and garlic. He talks about the Chile Queens of San Antonio. Combination Plates, tacos, margaritas and flan, and I'm getting hungry just thinking about it. Time to get busy with at least one of the 100 recipes included in this book.
This book has very special importance to me. As a Tejano
(that would be a Texan of Mexican decent) it's wonderful to read the history of the foods I grew up eating and loving. It's also a pleasure to see how Robb Walsh has taken these larger-than-life characters, recipes and historical events and weaved them into a great book that is sure to become a favorite of mine.
If you're a food history buff or a Tex-mex lover then this is a read for you. It's not fussy, it's not pretentious, but it's a thoroughly delicious look into one of America's first regional cuisines. It's soul food to the highest degree.